The Admiration of Mongolian Clothes: Tradition and Change 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээхThursday, 22 February 2007
By M. Bayarmaa
MONGOLIAN professional fashion designers, showing off the wonder of traditional Mongolian clothes, have been organizing displays every year before Tsagaan Sar on February 14, in the Mongol Costumes Center.
This year’s Mongolian clothes show was organized by the UB Mayor’s Office and Mongol Costumes Center. The traditional dress of Mongolians has a rich history of many centuries.
The costumes are arranged in different situations: somebody is riding on horseback over the steppe; sitting at home in their ger (at home); or dancing at a national festival. The conditions of the climate influence the kind of dresses, with different costumes for the seasons of the year. In summer, the Mongols wear a light coat or frock, the “Terleg”, in fall and winter a wadded coat, the “Khovontei deel”(made by cotton and material, cloth), or a lambskin coat (made by lamb’s wool), and in winter specifically, a sheepskin dress reminiscent of a fur coat, the “tsagaan nekhii deel”. The age of the wearer is reflected by the dress. The costumes of elderly people are, as a rule, modest and plain.
The female dress shows the different attire of the girls and married women. The costumes of the latter are decorated and adorned splendidly with ornaments speaking of an older design of the garment, which with the combination of the colors speak of an ancient tradition. The materials from which the dresses were sewn were produced naturally, such as leather, wool, and fur.
Dresses have been made of silk, cotton, wool, and brocades, and were richly decorated with jewelry and ornaments of gold, silver, corals, pearls and precious stones. In recent times, Mongolian traditional costumes have changed, becoming urbanized. During the show, many national clothes collections were displayed by designers such as The Great Mongolian Prides, Ethnic Groups of Mongolia, Donj (Image), Urban Girls and Coins.
The show, named “The Great Mongolian Prides,” aimed to make known for future generations the great history and culture of the traditional Mongolian costumes and the great history and culture.
The show also has other purposes, such as promoting traditional clothes in the national consciousness, developing patriotism in young people or preserving the cultural values of national history for the youth. The majority of the clothes of the show were made by designers and tailors of the “Chinba” salon. Traditional designs with a modern, contemporary twist attracted audiences’ interest. During the show, both young and old people asked and were interested in how to order these clothes.
The Ethnic Groups of Mongolia collection is most unique with various ethnic groups clothes displayed, e.g. Khalkh, Kazakh, Dorvod, Torguud, Bayad, and Khoton. There are approximately 20 ethnic groups in Mongolia. Most groups have their own traditional clothing and ornamentation reflecting the natural environment, history and customs of the groups, as well as the age, gender and social status of the person wearing them.
Soyolmaa 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээхSoyolmaa
Born 1958, 1985 diploma at the Institute for Textile Engineering in Moscow, since 1992 studies in Mongolian traditional costumes, since 1989 successful collections, e.g., “Lady in Red” (1989), “Colourful Gobi” (1996) and “Nostalgia” (2000).
Soyolmaa is the most successful and most famous Mongolian fashion designer. She runs a show-room in the centre of Ulaanbaatar, where both her own collections and international labels are on sale. She has studied in the Soviet Union, and received a solid training in handicraft. After finishing her studies, she was working as an industrial designer; after the breakdown of the Soviet Union, she set up for herself and founded her own label. Soyolmaa was co-founder of the Mongolian designers’ association and of the fashion-show “Goyol”, which takes place each winter in Ulaanbaatar since 1989.
The initial motivation for returning to her native traditions came from the “Star Wars” movie: One of the princesses was wearing a Mongolian national costume, which made clear to her the uniqueness of these traditional costumes. Since then she often uses elements of traditional Mongolian costumes in her collections and utilises domestic materials like silk, wool, leather or fur; nowadays, the Mongolian textile industry is able to supply these fabrics and materials in very good quality. Her collections are characterised by a feminine elegance, free and sometimes unconventional combinations of different materials and a clear line.
Soyolmaa has also been presenting examples from her collections in Germany: In 2000, she took part in the Expo in Hannover, in 2001 she presented her collection at the Commerzbank, Berlin (Die Tageszeitung, Berlin, 3rd of July 2001).
 Soyolmaa: 2006 collection |
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Ouynbileg 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээхOyunbileg
Born 1975 in Ulaanbaatar, 1997 diploma at the Institute for Design and Arts “Setgemj”, 1997–2004 designer at the “Gobi” company, participation at “Goyol 2002″ and “Goyol 2003″, since 2005 free-lance woollens designer for various manufactories in Mongolia.
Oyunbileg has specialised on products of cashmere. Having studied at the state-run wool factory “Gobi”, which employs a staff of designers and produces for the international market, also for German trade chains, she has had the benefit of a solid training in handicraft. However, since her abounding creativity wasn’t called for at “Gobi”, she set up for herself as a free-lance designer.
Oyunbileg loves references to traditional costumes, translating them into bordures or clasps, into simple wraparound cuts, but she also improvises with international brands such as Adidas. Her openness concerning the materials also manifests itself in her designs for evening and cocktail gowns. Unlike most of her female Mongolian colleagues she also designs men’s fashion, orienting herself by rather classical models. For the exhibition, Oyunbileg has designed five creations, which are currently in production.
 Oyunbileg: pinboard  Oyunbileg: evening dress, Goyol 2005 |
Ovdogmid 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээхOvdogmid
Born 1980, 1988 – 2003 studies of fine arts at the Institute for Fine Arts, Ulaanbaatar, 2003 – 2005 studies of design at the Technical University, Ulaanbaatar, since 2006 designer at Shilmel Zagvar Inc., 2004 Award for Best Costume at the Goyol Festival, 1. Prize at the Festival of Mongolian National Costumes, 2005 single fashion-show at the Museum of Mongolian National Costumes, 2006 single fashion-show at the National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C.
Right after he had finished studies of fine arts, Ovdogmid was invited to participate at the Goyol fashion-show as a designer. He began experimenting with felt, discovering it as the adequate material for him. In Mongolia, felt is traditionally being used for yurts, boots and blankets, and it was also used in the fine arts. However Ovdogmid for the first time processed merino wool to an extremely fine and softly flowing felt that could also be used for clothing. His imaginative felt creations immediately attracted the professional fashion world’s attention.
Since there are no predecessors or standards for his manner of utilising felt, he had to acquire the technique on his own: he shapes the clothes directly on the torso, felting them in parts that correspond to traditional cuts. The pieces are not sewed together but felted, so that they are attached to each other seamlessly. Other materials are integrated in the process of felting, or sewed on as ornaments afterwards.
Ovdogmid regards himself as an artist, each costume is – first of all, because of his way of creation – a unique and artistic object. Finest handicraft, costly materials and the singularity turn his creations into works of art, which hardly have anything to do with fashion and because of their prices are hard to sell. Therefore, Ovdogmid together with some colleagues has founded a company that produces felt accessories – hand bags or hats – which are especially saleable in the US and in Japan.
Ovdogmid: felt collection, summer 2006
Ovdogmid: felt collection, Goyol 2006
Enkhchimeg 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээхEnkhchimeg
Born 1979, diploma at the Institute for Fashion Design in Ulaanbaatar, postgraduate studies at the Central Saint Martins College in London, 1998 awarded best young designer at the Goyol Festival, 2000 and 2002 Prize for Best Design at the Goyol Festival, 2003 Prize for the best concept at the Komatsu fashion competition in Japan.
As early as in the age of 19, Enkhchimeg presented her first collection; since then, she has designed 18 more collections, each of which comprises approximately 20 creations. During recent years she has specialised on evening gowns. In 2003, Enkhchimeg became senior designer at the fashion school where she had been studying, now in turn teaching students.
“The Beauty of the Steppe” was the title of the collection that earned her the attention of the fashion world: she places some emphasis differently by using traditional elements and patterns in an imaginative and economical way, while the cuts are rather modelled on European fashion. She refers to the internationality of today’s fashion, where the national element has become but an ornament: the relevance of clothing is entirely different from that of earlier times. Neither are there any rules of dressing that would visualise the social hierarchy, nor does any demand for non-functional clothing exist. As a designer, she has to adopt international trends, since her customers not only live in Mongolia but primarily abroad, from the United Kingdom to Australia.
Enkhchimeg: from the collection “The Beauty of the Steppe”, 1998
Chimbai Salon 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээхstitched
Fashion made in Mongolia
Chimbai Salon
Chimbai Salon: Munkhtsetseg, Bayartsetseg, Naranchimeg 2005
ChimbaiThe Museum of Mongolian National Costumes and the Chimbai studio are both located in Ulaanbaatar’s centre since one year. The director of both institutions is B. Suvd, a graduated ethnologist and designer, who concerns herself in particular with the scientific research into the history of Mongolian national costumes. Costumes are being tailored in accordance with the originals and sorted by ethnical characteristics of the various tribes that live or lived on the 800 years old Mongolian national territory. “Chimbai” combines research, training, fashion design and handicraft, and additionally forms a kind of “arent organisation” for young designers and beginners in the fashion business. The principle of mentorship is traditionally common in Mongolia: Renowned older designers promote younger fashion designers’ educations and careers.
A number of young designers currently work in the “Chimbai” studio, a collaboration that offers them the opportunity to present their creations at fashion-shows and to organise their own shows. They can thoroughly learn the business without being forced to run a financial risk right at the beginning of their career. The exhibition will present creations by Amarzaya (born 1980), Bayartsetseg (born 1983), Bayarzul (born 1984), Ichinkhorloo (born 1981), Munkhtsetseg (born 1979) and Naranchimeg (born 1983); their creations are – also due to the orientation of their mentor – in cut and conception modelled on traditional Mongolian costumes.
ifa Gallery Stuttgart 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээх
Current
ifa Gallery Stuttgart
13.4. – 27.5.2007
stitched
Fashion made Mongolia
“stitched – Fashion made in Mongolia” 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээх
stitched Fashion made in Mongolia
Jens Rötzsch: Goyol 2006, Backstage, 2005
© Jens Rötzsch, BerlinLandscapes of green grass, vast deserts, high skies, caravans, nomads and yurts – thus Mongolia is traditionally depicted. That the camels have been replaced by lorries, that nomads utilise solar cells to generate the electricity for their TV sets, that Ulaanbaatar with almost one million inhabitants has developed from a dull and grey accumulation of housing complexes into a lively city, where imaginative colourful, sometimes shrill fashion is being created – these are surprising views and insights.An exceedingly lively and autonomous fashion scene has emerged in the Mongolian capital Ulaanbaatar within the last 15 years. Once a year in December, the international fashion festival “Goyol” takes place, where the latest trends are presented. Although several Mongolian designers are already present on international cat-walks, the scene is still largely unknown in Europe.
The exhibition “stitched – Fashion made in Mongolia” presents some of Mongolia’s leading fashion designers. Besides individual positions such as Soyolmaa and Enkhchimeg, we also present “Chimbai”, a studio cooperating with the Museum of National Costumes. This collaboration is exemplary for the education, development and innovation in the Mongolian fashion scene: The spectrum of their activities spans from the cultivation of traditions and the scientific research into the ethnical differences of traditional costumes, training in handicraft, to unique, contemporary creations and the organisation of fashion shows. “Chimbai”, one among a number of similar institutions in Ulaanbaatar, attends to and advises young designers also after their graduation from the fashion department.
The exhibition will chiefly present examples from collections referring to elements of Mongolian traditional costumes; the rediscovery of certain details, cuts or materials and their transformation into modern, contemporary and wearable fashion lies in the centre of the exhibition’s interest. “stitched – Fashion made in Mongolia” is a part of the exhibition series “Fashion Worlds”, which also included the very successful exhibitions “Arabian Worlds – Fashion Worlds” and “Sand and Silk. Fashion made in Africa” that the ifa galleries in Berlin and Stuttgart have been presenting.
http://cms.ifa.de/en/ausstellungen/ausstellungen-in-deutschland/past-exhibitions/2006/stitched/
Cashmere on the Catwalk 3 сар 28, 2007
designer Монгол, Мэдээлэл-д бичсэн , сэтгэгдэл үлдээх| http://ubpost.mongolnews.mn |
| Thursday, 01 February 2007 | |
 By Daniel JocelynTHE latest cashmere concoctions were on the catwalk last week at the Continental Hotel in the annual Cashmere Camel Catwalk 2007 fashion show. On the evenings of Friday 26 and Saturday January 27 various collections were paraded down the runway, id-entifying fashion trends that will define Fall and Winter 2007and 2008. The knitwear designs are mostly aimed at women but the collections included men and children’s wear and the designers utilized cashmere, camel, yak and sheep yarns in their designs.The collections range from office wear designed and produced by Naran-togtoh and Naslma of the Mongolian Textile Insti-tute, Champions League collection for men inspired by international soccer, designed by Tuul and produced by Cashmere Studio and the Sor Camel Collection designed by Zoe Hillyard and Oyunbileg and produced by Sor Cashmere. Children were also catered for with the Little Love collection - luxury striped cashmere, again designed by Tuul and produced by Cash-mere Studio.The collections are on view from February 3 at Cashmere Studio Shop, with a view to attract orders for when the lines come out later this year. |